Floor Sanding And Finishing
Sanding
Re-Coating
Finishing
Every floor gets sanded a little differently. Different species, finishes, stains, etc. will cause us to alter our process slightly. However, the core of our process is applied to almost every floor we sand. It consists of sanding the main body of the floor with a drum sander, two cuts, one with 40 grit then 60 grit. The edges are sanded once with 100 grit using a rotary sander called an edger. The floor is then sanded twice with a machine called the Trio, which is basically a random orbit buffer with three heads. The first cut is with 60 grit paper, then 100 grit paper. The floor is then buffed twice with 80 and 120 grit screens. The edges are sanded with random orbit sanders with 150 grit paper. The corners are hand scraped.
Finishing
Re-Coating
Finishing
Once we have sanded the floor, it is too slick to receive stain properly, so we use denatured alcohol to “pop” the grain. During the sanding process, the grain gets folded over. By popping the grain, it causes it to stand back up and allows the stain to penetrate. We then apply the stain by pouring it directly on the floor and buffing it in. We buff off any excess and allow the stain to dry overnight. The next day we apply one coat of water-based sealer and one coat of water-based finish. We allow that to dry overnight. The following day, we abrade the finish using a buffer pad, install the quarter round, and apply the final coat of water-based finish.
Re-Coating
Re-Coating
Re-Coating
A re-coat is a dustless process which typically takes one day to complete. We spray the floor with Basic Coatings' Dissolver. This is buffed into the finish and allowed some time to break down any contaminants that may be on the floor. We then use a machine called a Dirt Dragon and Basic Coatings' Squeaky to remove the Dissolver. Once the floors are clean, we apply Basic Coating's Ty Coat, which is a bonding coat. This dries for about an hour, we then apply the finish coat.
Floor Installation
Glue Down Floors
Glue Down Floors
Glue Down Floors
Glue down floor installations vary with the type of flooring that is being used. However, most require the floor to be level 1/8 of an inch within 8 feet. The reasons for this are related to bonding issues. A very smart tech rep once explained it this way, "No touchy, touchy, no sticky, sticky." In other words, if the floor is flat the wood will maintain contact with the glue being used and you should have no bonding issues. We typically use a modified silane adhesive for its holding power and ease of cleanup. We also use sealants if we are concerned with bonding issues or moisture issues. We will use other types of glues if the situation necessitates it. The basic process is to remove any existing flooring, seal the floor, prep the subfloor with a leveling compound, install the hardwood, install the quarter round.
Floating Floor
Glue Down Floors
Glue Down Floors
Floating floors include laminate, luxury vinyl plank (LVP), and engineered wood floors. Laminate floors are pressed wood with a laminated skin that looks like real wood. Conceptually this is not a bad idea. However, most installers do not spend any time leveling the subfloor and homeowners end up with floors that feel loose or spongey and they tend to fail. The tolerance for most laminates is the same as most glue down products, 1/8 of an inch within 8 feet. We use an eight-foot level in conjunction with a laser to determine high and low spots. We then fill the low spots with leveling compound. The base and door jambs are cut. The sub-floor is cleaned, and if necessary, a moisture barrier/pad is placed on the sub-floor and the flooring is installed over it. It is common for the flooring to have a locking system whereby boards are connected via locks that are milled into the boards. I highly recommend either laminate or LVP for commercial applications and basement/playroom areas where floors are expected to take a lot of abuse. Cheaper laminates won’t hold up as well which is why I recommend laminates with a commercial rating. I frown upon using laminates over plywood since the laminate has no structural value. Any weakness in the plywood is transferred to the laminate. It can be done; I just find the feel of solid or engineered glue down over plywood to be preferable to that of a floating floor.
Nail Down Floor
Glue Down Floors
Nail Down Floor
Nail down flooring is usually 3/4 of an inch thick and comes in varying widths and lengths. Like the name suggests, it is nailed down. We use L cleat nailers to allow the wood some natural movement without releasing from the subfloor. Nail down floors can only be used on plywood or OSB. The recommended thickness of plywood is 3/4 of an inch. We begin the install by leveling any sudden change of elevation in the subfloor. Once that is complete, we cut the jambs and the base. A moisture mitigator such as 15# roofing felt is placed over the plywood. We install the lineup run (the first one or two boards from one wall to the opposite wall). The floor is then racked out (a process of laying the boards on the floor in the pattern they will be nailed). Once the rack out is complete the floor is then nailed every 6-8 inches along the individual runs with the L-cleat nailers.